How to add a water feature to your garden
From Homemakers magazine.
From a tiny, musical fountain to an in-ground pond, a water
feature transforms any garden into a serene retreat
By Karen Kirk
Water nourishes the body and soothes the soul. It's no wonder that more and more gardeners
are rolling back the sod and incorporating beautiful water features into their landscapes,
ranging from small decorative fountains to impressive inground ponds.
Garden centres offer lovely, inexpensive statuary as well as innovative products that make
building your own pond easy, while landscape professionals offer larger custom-designed
options. Here, Toronto artist Anne Klar-Futerman designed two ponds that surround her studio
(formerly a two-car garage). "As an artist, I couldn't imagine a more tranquil environment in
which to create," she says. Influenced by the water gardens she visited while in Japan, Anne
uses rockery for textural interest, a waterfall and stream to connect the two ponds and a variety
of aquatic plants.
Garden sculptures collected on her travels lend an artful touch, while seating positioned at
select vantage points throughout the garden allows her to enjoy the soothing sights and sounds
of the water feature day and night.
Planning your pond
Location: Certified landscape designer Fred Post of Your Designer Landscapes in Grimsby,
Ont., recommends choosing the location of your pond based on how you plan to use your water
feature - as a vista through a living room window or a tranquil setting for outdoor dining and
entertaining. Avoid placing a pond beneath or close to trees that will drop their leaves or
needles, adding additional maintenance to your pond. Consider slope, soil, sun, shade, wind
and utility lines when planning the location of your water feature.
Slope: Place the pond on a flat area above the lowest spot on the site to avoid overflow by
rainwater, causing muddy waters and possibly washing away plants and fish.
Soil: Clay soil, although difficult to excavate, holds its shape, and flexible liners will conform to
whatever configuration you dig out. Create a series of internal ledges that will provide bases for
large boulders to gradually incline upward to the pond margins and for marginal plants to be
placed, in pots, in the pond.
Sun, shade and wind: Position your pond where plants will get at least six hours of direct
sunlight each day. Wind can speed up evaporation and damage plants and shrubs. Erect
windscreens in windy spots.
Utilities: Call before you dig to avoid installing over gas, electrical or sewer lines. The closer the
pond is to electrical outlets for fountains, lights and a pump, the less expensive it will be to run
lines to it. Running a water line is only necessary if you can't reach the pond with a garden hose
to top off the water level.
Water garden greenery
• Sixty to 70 per cent of water surface should be covered with foliage to reduce the water
temperature and combat algae growth, which is caused by too much sunlight.
• Add hardy trapdoor or melantho scavenger snails to the pond to feed on algae and green
scum.
Plants can make or break the function of an ecosystem. Plants provide valuable biological
filtration by removing nitrogen, ammonia, nitrates and other nutrients from the water that algae
would otherwise feed on.
But beauty and filtration are not the only qualities plants add to your water garden. Submerged
and marginal plants provide food, shade and protection for fish and other wildlife that live in and
around your pond. Some blooming plants even attract beneficial birds, insects, butterflies, frogs
and others to your watery paradise. Floating-leaved plants, such as water lilies, shade water
surfaces and absorb dissolved nutrients that contribute to algae proliferation.
Submerged plants: Sometimes referred to as oxygenators, these aquatic plants grow totally
submerged underwater. They liberate oxygen that clears water, prevents growth of algae and
allows fish to breathe. They include parrot feather, foxtail and water violet.
Floating-leaved plants: Floaters drift on the water surface providing shade to lower water
temperature and protection for fish. They absorb dissolved nutrients that encourage growth of
algae, and their roots receive and protect fish eggs. They include water lily, free-floating fairy
moss and water hyacinth.
Marginal plants: Marginals are shallow water or bog plants that sit on ledges built along the
edge of the pond. Their chief function is decorative, but they also provide necessary shade. They
include winter hardy arrowhead, yellow water iris and cattail, as well as tropical, nonhardy taro,
canna and papyrus.
Pool resources
Pumps and filters: A pond filter/pump system is the single most important element of any pond.
Not only does it function as a water clarifier, but it is also the heart of the fish's health. Always
install a system slightly larger than needed to allow for fish growth.
Liners: The liner is one of the most expensive and important items you will purchase. Ethylene
propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber 45mil is fish-safe and what most professionals
recommend.
Other options are polyethylene and polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Before installing the liner make
sure to eliminate all small stones and sticks. All liners require the installation of an underlay, a
cushion of material between the liner and the soil that helps prevent punctures and tears. The
minimum depth of the pond should be 45 centimetres (17ß inches) for most areas. Allow 15 to
30 centimetres (six to 12 inches) for deep shelves for plants.
Use the following formula to determine the size of the liner: Length of liner = Length of pond
plus 2 x depth plus 2 feet Width of liner = Width of pond plus 2 x depth plus 2 feet
Deterring pond predators: Edge your pond with rocks or flagstones, arranging them to hang out
over the water 15 to 20 centimetres (six to eight inches). Place rocks high enough from the
water surface so that predators can't scoop out fish. Another solution is to place predator netting
over the pond, or motion-sensor sprinklers to spray the predator when it approaches.
No fly zone
Standing water is the perfect breeding ground for harmful mosquitoes, which begin laying their
eggs in early spring. To ensure a mosquito-free yard this summer, change standing water in
birdbaths, urns and ponds frequently or use a pump to keep water moving. Plants such as
cattails and bulrushes will attract dragonflies and other mosquito-eating insects. Adding pond
fish will not only help to support the natural ecosystem and reduce pond maintenance, but they'll
also help keep your water free of mosquito eggs and larvae.
According to some studies, a single "mosquito fish" can eat up to 168 mosquitos in an eight-
hour period. Koi and goldfish are also a good choice because they easily tolerate fluctuations in
water temperature and poor environments.
From Homemakers magazine.
From a tiny, musical fountain to an in-ground pond, a water
feature transforms any garden into a serene retreat
By Karen Kirk
Water nourishes the body and soothes the soul. It's no wonder that more and more gardeners
are rolling back the sod and incorporating beautiful water features into their landscapes,
ranging from small decorative fountains to impressive inground ponds.
Garden centres offer lovely, inexpensive statuary as well as innovative products that make
building your own pond easy, while landscape professionals offer larger custom-designed
options. Here, Toronto artist Anne Klar-Futerman designed two ponds that surround her studio
(formerly a two-car garage). "As an artist, I couldn't imagine a more tranquil environment in
which to create," she says. Influenced by the water gardens she visited while in Japan, Anne
uses rockery for textural interest, a waterfall and stream to connect the two ponds and a variety
of aquatic plants.
Garden sculptures collected on her travels lend an artful touch, while seating positioned at
select vantage points throughout the garden allows her to enjoy the soothing sights and sounds
of the water feature day and night.
Planning your pond
Location: Certified landscape designer Fred Post of Your Designer Landscapes in Grimsby,
Ont., recommends choosing the location of your pond based on how you plan to use your water
feature - as a vista through a living room window or a tranquil setting for outdoor dining and
entertaining. Avoid placing a pond beneath or close to trees that will drop their leaves or
needles, adding additional maintenance to your pond. Consider slope, soil, sun, shade, wind
and utility lines when planning the location of your water feature.
Slope: Place the pond on a flat area above the lowest spot on the site to avoid overflow by
rainwater, causing muddy waters and possibly washing away plants and fish.
Soil: Clay soil, although difficult to excavate, holds its shape, and flexible liners will conform to
whatever configuration you dig out. Create a series of internal ledges that will provide bases for
large boulders to gradually incline upward to the pond margins and for marginal plants to be
placed, in pots, in the pond.
Sun, shade and wind: Position your pond where plants will get at least six hours of direct
sunlight each day. Wind can speed up evaporation and damage plants and shrubs. Erect
windscreens in windy spots.
Utilities: Call before you dig to avoid installing over gas, electrical or sewer lines. The closer the
pond is to electrical outlets for fountains, lights and a pump, the less expensive it will be to run
lines to it. Running a water line is only necessary if you can't reach the pond with a garden hose
to top off the water level.
Water garden greenery
• Sixty to 70 per cent of water surface should be covered with foliage to reduce the water
temperature and combat algae growth, which is caused by too much sunlight.
• Add hardy trapdoor or melantho scavenger snails to the pond to feed on algae and green
scum.
Plants can make or break the function of an ecosystem. Plants provide valuable biological
filtration by removing nitrogen, ammonia, nitrates and other nutrients from the water that algae
would otherwise feed on.
But beauty and filtration are not the only qualities plants add to your water garden. Submerged
and marginal plants provide food, shade and protection for fish and other wildlife that live in and
around your pond. Some blooming plants even attract beneficial birds, insects, butterflies, frogs
and others to your watery paradise. Floating-leaved plants, such as water lilies, shade water
surfaces and absorb dissolved nutrients that contribute to algae proliferation.
Submerged plants: Sometimes referred to as oxygenators, these aquatic plants grow totally
submerged underwater. They liberate oxygen that clears water, prevents growth of algae and
allows fish to breathe. They include parrot feather, foxtail and water violet.
Floating-leaved plants: Floaters drift on the water surface providing shade to lower water
temperature and protection for fish. They absorb dissolved nutrients that encourage growth of
algae, and their roots receive and protect fish eggs. They include water lily, free-floating fairy
moss and water hyacinth.
Marginal plants: Marginals are shallow water or bog plants that sit on ledges built along the
edge of the pond. Their chief function is decorative, but they also provide necessary shade. They
include winter hardy arrowhead, yellow water iris and cattail, as well as tropical, nonhardy taro,
canna and papyrus.
Pool resources
Pumps and filters: A pond filter/pump system is the single most important element of any pond.
Not only does it function as a water clarifier, but it is also the heart of the fish's health. Always
install a system slightly larger than needed to allow for fish growth.
Liners: The liner is one of the most expensive and important items you will purchase. Ethylene
propylene diene monomer (EPDM) rubber 45mil is fish-safe and what most professionals
recommend.
Other options are polyethylene and polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Before installing the liner make
sure to eliminate all small stones and sticks. All liners require the installation of an underlay, a
cushion of material between the liner and the soil that helps prevent punctures and tears. The
minimum depth of the pond should be 45 centimetres (17ß inches) for most areas. Allow 15 to
30 centimetres (six to 12 inches) for deep shelves for plants.
Use the following formula to determine the size of the liner: Length of liner = Length of pond
plus 2 x depth plus 2 feet Width of liner = Width of pond plus 2 x depth plus 2 feet
Deterring pond predators: Edge your pond with rocks or flagstones, arranging them to hang out
over the water 15 to 20 centimetres (six to eight inches). Place rocks high enough from the
water surface so that predators can't scoop out fish. Another solution is to place predator netting
over the pond, or motion-sensor sprinklers to spray the predator when it approaches.
No fly zone
Standing water is the perfect breeding ground for harmful mosquitoes, which begin laying their
eggs in early spring. To ensure a mosquito-free yard this summer, change standing water in
birdbaths, urns and ponds frequently or use a pump to keep water moving. Plants such as
cattails and bulrushes will attract dragonflies and other mosquito-eating insects. Adding pond
fish will not only help to support the natural ecosystem and reduce pond maintenance, but they'll
also help keep your water free of mosquito eggs and larvae.
According to some studies, a single "mosquito fish" can eat up to 168 mosquitos in an eight-
hour period. Koi and goldfish are also a good choice because they easily tolerate fluctuations in
water temperature and poor environments.